Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Day 5- Half way there: busier watches and a visit from a booby bird

Time: 2200 Zulu (noon Hawaii time)
Position: 11-deg 00-min N 157-deg 54-min W
Wind: ENE 17 Seas: E 4-7-ft
Avg. Course: 192 T
Avg. Speed: 5.0-knots
Rig: 80% jib and triple-reefed mains'l
24-hr distance traveled: 120-nm
Distance to Fanning Island: 434-nm

As you've probably guessed, Day-5 started with a sail change. Mains'l down to triple-reef, drop storm jib, flake it get back to cockpit into a sailbag, hank on new sail, raise 80% jib. The whole process probably only took about a half hour (ridiculously long for you racers out there, I'm sure). With more sail area up front we were able to move along in the right direction at a nice clip with less pressure on our wind vane, Moni. Back on track, Chris motivated a little shopping spree. Our packing the boat, has made all the produce up front in the V-berth a bit less accessible, so he pulled down our hanging bins and checked our citrus bin pulling kiwi fruit and oranges that needed to be consumed first. Shawn went forward and organized, finding that all the avocados (5) were ready to eat and the jicama, bundled together in a half mesh half plastic bag, needed to removed and placed in open air to breathe. The windfall of avocados decided our dining for the evening: Mexican night with rice, black beans and a huge amount of guacamole! We enjoyed this with our nightly entertainment provided by a passing masked booby bird who very determinedly successfully landed upon our stern arch solar farm. Big Daddy and Hit Girl are indeed a nice platform, however, with the boat rolling back and forth, time after time, after landing and attempting a clumsy "booby dance," the bird was unable to keep footing and slipped back into the ocean only to try once again.

It was an active night. Once darkness descended, squall after squall rolled through. About half of each hour was spent weathering a medium rain and increased winds, through which Shawn held tight deciding that the increase in winds was manageable, but always ready to douse the triple-reefed main. Chris came on deck for his watch in the middle of one of the bigger squalls, and we decided to drop the main together. Through Chris' graveyard watch he spent the first two hours observing and fiddling with the Monitor wind vane, the second two hours he decided to put the triple-reefed main back up and then slowly implemented. Once again, flying along, with Tao loaded to the max, the cockpit drains equilibrate with water coming up over our cockpit grate. Tired of dealing with this, he spent the final 2-hrs pulling gear out of the lazarette to access our cockpit drains and closed the forward two (of four) to experiment (since we are in manageable weather).

Shawn awoke tired and sore from the past 5 days of wedging into places to keep stable and being constantly knocked around while moving. First stop, the head where you've got to wedge yourself, do your business, then wedge yourself again in order to pump water in with one foot and out with other hand all the while making sure not to have too much in the bowl such that a stray roll from a wave might toss some out onto the sole. All that successfully completed, one final wedge is required in order to thoroughly wash hands. Though it had been a long night, we still managed a nice huevos rancheros breakfast to celebrate having passed our half-way point at just after 0200 this morning, 482.5-nm from both our outbound and inbound destinations. After a relatively mellow morning watch, Chris was awaken for his shift early as one more squall passed overhead which brought us to another noon point and another decision about sail configuration.

Monday, May 14, 2012

Day 4- the "other" tack

Time: 2200 Zulu (noon Hawaii time)
Position: 12-deg 58-min N 157-deg 29-min W
Wind: ENE 15 Seas: E 3-6-ft SE component
Avg. Course: 191 T
Avg. Speed: 4.9-knots
Rig: storm jib and double-reefed mains'l
24-hr distance traveled: 117-nm
Distance to Fanning Island: 554-nm

Gorgeous sunny sailing continued throughout yesterday afternoon. As night closed in, we pulled the single-reefed mains'l down to a double-reef for easy handling. One minute it seemed that we needed to shake a reef and the next we were glad to have pulled it as mini-squalls became the norm throughout the night. We used the term "mini" to mean sprinkles of rain and a 5-knot increase in wind as the thin wispy clouds covered large portions of the star-filled sky and then quickly moved on by. Near dawn, cloud cover thickened and by sunrise, there was 98% cloud cover. All morning long we have awaited the seemingly daily AIS ship alarm alert, but as of yet, no ships on the horizon.

Nearly all the way to Hawaii we were on a starboard tack. Since leaving the lee of the Big Island, this passage has all been port tack, and there are definitely differences. Knowing that this was to be the case, we rigged what we could for port tack. This means, we tried to get weight evenly distributed throughout Tao, but were happy to have a little extra on the port (the high or windward side), so, we're pulling fresh water from our starboard tank first. We also set up the starboard sea berth for sleeping and are using the port berth as our "closet," as it is more comfortable to sleep on the downwind side. Outside in the cockpit, Chris still claims the high side seat under the dodger, whereas Shawn has found that she prefers the low-side seat, now known as the "corner pocket." What we weren't as ready for was the galley sloping the opposite direction- instead of everything sliding to the center of the boat, everything slides outboard. Most annoyingly, the counter-extension (a.k.a cutting board) that spans the sink, now instead, slides outboard, or further from reach. Also, our galley strap had to be shortened (by the complex method of knotting it) in order to bear weight leaning toward the stove instead of away from it. Farther forward, the boat design unfortunately allows the small amount of forward leakage water to drain onto the raised forward sole (instead of underneath the head while on starboard tack) before going into the bilge, so we are currently on towel patrol. However, we are daily adapting and are grateful that weather has been so perfectly mellow thus far.

As the noon point was collected, we are pointing a bit to windward of our rhumb line. Moni has been straining to keep us heading off the wind with more mains'l up than forward sail area (the potato chip sized storm jib is really small). Chris, just up from the bunk, is observing the conditions and deciding whether Day-5 will start with a sail change.

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Day 3- Fantastic sailing and snap peas too

Time: 2200 Zulu (noon Hawaii time)
Position: 16-deg 47-min N 156-deg 42-min W
Wind: ENE 12-14 Seas: E 3-6-ft SE component
Avg. Course: 191 T
Avg. Speed: 4.8-knots
Rig: storm jib and single-reefed mains'l
24-hr distance traveled: 116-nm
Distance to Fanning Island: 671-nm

We are happy to report that Chris is feeling much improved and both of our appetites are ravenous. This is good because we have a ton of vegetables that are ready to be eaten. We are very impressed with our new refrigerator's performance, having pulled crisp and near fresh snap peas out for use in last nights ginger and red pepper pasta. Tao, with her new rigging, is doing excellent and our MVP crew-member, Moni is steering true without complaint.

It has been beautiful sailing for the past 24-hours. A fast beam reach with semi-organized seas. Light winds, but enough to keep us moving and at the noon point, it is just picking up a couple of knots for more regular speeds in the 6-knot range. We keep talking about putting up more sail area, but we're moving plenty quick and are comfortable with the manageable configuration, and then it picks up just enough that we need to pull another reef anyway. As long as we're making 100-nm per day, seems like plenty of sail area. With the moon near gone, the night watches are filled with spectacular star-gazing, a stunning planet that is setting a few hours after the sun (anyone know which one?), and of course phosphorescence lining our wake.

After a relatively uneventful night, Shawn got up early to photograph the sunrise, and at 0800 we had another cargo ship encounter. This time 30-min after being warned of its presence, it passed 3.4-nm behind us (just as the AIS had estimated) en route to Panama. Again, upon radio contact, the ship could not find us on their radar at 10-nm out. We love our AIS. Otherwise, our watches are each accompanied by several birds as they circle Tao hunting for fish below our keel, and we are eating perfectly ripe tomatoes like apples. It is difficult to keep track of the day of the week, but we're pretty sure it's Sunday, and so we want to send a special Happy Mother's Day out to all you mothers following our adventures.

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Day 2- Squalls, rainbows, ships and sun with a side of seasickness

Time: 2000 Zulu (noon Hawaii time)
Position: 16-deg 47-min N 156-deg 42-min W
Wind: EENE 8-13 Seas: E 3-6-ft SE component
Avg. Course: 189 T
Avg. Speed: 4.5-knots
Rig: storms'l and single-reefed mains'l
24-hr distance traveled: 108-nm
Distance to Fanning Island: 786-nm

Yesterday afternoon and evening the winds stayed E around 15-knots. The night was blissfully star-filled sailing due south, directly toward the Southern Cross constellation. This morning, winds have come down a bit to 10-15, bringing our speeds down and more mains'l up. Chris has been battling seasickness through it all. Very frustrating to have done all this work to get here and not feel well. His graveyard shift was rough as he was welcomed by the quarter moon rise accompanied by a squall (which gratefully only upped the winds 5-knots so no sail reduction required), a flying fish in the cockpit, and subsequently he tossed his dinner over the rail. Rough watch. Shawn, on the other hand, awoke this morning feeling great. A little sad to have missed the sunrise, instead she got to enjoy the beauty of a morning squall, pulled down the main to a triple-reef, and after the bulk of the cell had passed, watched a rainbow march away as the sun shone through. Main back up to double-reef and barely a moment to relax when our new AIS alarm went off.

First ship sighting, check. It was a bit nerve wracking with our new integrated VHS/AIS system, but with Chris' groggy help from the bunk, Shawn noted the ship's 13-knot speed, just over 10-nm away and its CPA (closest point of approach) was over 8-nm. Still, she hailed the cargo ship, en route to Quingdao, China, just to see if they saw us. Nope, we're not on their AIS because we only receive don't have a transponder (it would be nice to have this extra feature but didn't seem necessary at the time), and they couldn't make our small ship out on their radar. No problem, their hulking mass was barely visible to us on the horizon, passing far behind us. Another AIS success. A few moments later, we assume it was them that they played a song over channel 16 for Shawn. In the middle of the Pacific!

Clouds cleared up and it has been blissfully sunny the rest of the morning watch, although seas have not quite organized yet. We've been rotating through 4 6-hr watches. Shawn with 0600-noon, Chris noon-1800, Shawn 1800-midnight, Chris midnight to 0600. However, there are several crossover areas where Shawn gets up early and/or Chris stays on deck late to allow for Shawn to do meal prep and cook, Camelbak refill (note to self, do not sit on hose...), and computer work since Chris simply can not help with these tasks when seasick. However, Chris has been a rock star standing all of his watches through the sickness and is set up to do our check-ins on the PacSea Net at the end of his afternoon shift. Unfortunately, he has been feeling so poorly that extra conversation is not yet appealing. When he awoke for his watch this afternoon, he was feeling "better" so let's hope it holds. Everything is better when not battling seasickness...

Friday, May 11, 2012

Day 1 (first full day)- Ready, set, oops too fast!

Time: 2000 Zulu (noon Hawaii time)
Position: 18-deg 34-min N 156-deg 24-min W
Wind: E 15 Seas: Confused dominant ESE 3-7-ft
Avg. Course: 198 T
Avg. Speed: 6.3-knots
Rig: storms'l and triple-reefed mains'l
24-hr distance traveled: 65.7-nm (really only 10.5-hrs of travel as the other 13.5 were spent hove-to, drifting, sailing back along our track, or bobbing violently rail to rail in order to stay in the lee of the Big Island and out of the South Point waters until day break)
Distance to Fanning Island: 895-nm

We were surprised to have great sailing winds all the way south along the Kona coast, and we ended up as far south as we wanted to get (15-nm offshore at the latitude of Okoe Bay) by 1800. This is right where we wanted to be 10-hours from then, so we decided to heave-to. Unfortunately, there really wasn't enough wind and the currents were strongly pulling us toward South Point. After PacSea Net checking and sunset, as the cloak of darkness settled, a nearly hour long downpour ensued as we drifted. Although Shawn was quickly reminded that our foul weather gear has been reduced to merely wind protection over the miles, she was rewarded for witnessing the dark disorienting downpour by amazing views of phosphorescence at all different depths, shapes, and sizes in the confused seas as we teased the edge of the South Point "channel". Soon we had enough wind to jibe and sailed back along our track, now in SE winds. That is, until they shut down completely, and the sails angrily slapped themselves over and over in seas with no wind. Chris pulled them down and rigged our storm jib in preparation, as we spent several quite un-sleep-inducing hours awaiting sun and breeze. To make our goal of reaching the edge of the channel at least 30-nm west of South Point by 0800 and really to end the ceaseless rail to rail roll, we fired up Yannie for a brief half hour motor where, just as forecast, we found the wind.

There is something magical that comes with daybreak, endless possibilities. The NOAA forecast had said channel winds would be strongest this morning at 0800 and were to lessen gradually (bringing the seas with them) for the rest of the weekend. Thus far, it has been spot on. To us, this makes our rather sleepless night in attempt to time ourselves, worthwhile, because so far we have had as beautiful a sailing passage as we could imagine past South Point, a place that breeds such confused seas and overly windy conditions. Both of us individually have been sending grateful energy to Tony Morrelli who did such an amazing job putting our 3rd reef into our mains'l- it is a perfect amount of sail for single handing in so many conditions.

As we took the noon point, the seas are mellowing a little and becoming ever so slightly more organized though we still have random waves break over our dodger, and our bodies are each desperately seeking balance. Having our Camelbak's this round is really helping to fend off dehydration, Shawn's meal/snack planning has been keeping us fed, and luckily so far nobody's food has been lost overboard. The sun is out and we are sailing at a great clip. Though a bit south of our intended course, we figure we can make up the lost easting once the seas organize. Until then, we will tire ourselves out getting used to the intense exposure until we are exhausted enough to sleep on a schedule.

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Day 1- We're Sailing!!

Time: 2000 Zulu (noon Hawaii time)
Position: 19-deg 37-min N 156-deg 02-min W
Wind: SW 12 Seas: SW 2-ft
Avg. Course: 193 T
Avg. Speed: 4.5-knots
Rig: 80% jib and mains'l with 1st reef
24-hr distance traveled: 2.5-nm (pushed off at 1111)
Distance to Fanning Island: 960-nm

Winds abruptly mellowed out last evening just after the sun set and we tossed and turned as isolated heavy downpours washed our decks. This morning our weather window still looked good, so we got about preparing to set sail. After our cups of tea, Chris 4200ing velcro to help it stay on his soda charger, Shawn doing final dishes, and one more fresh water hose down each, we let go the mooring at just after 0900 and made the short jaunt to the fuel dock. The harbor conditions were nice and quiet, the rain apparently keeping some of the fishermen away. We topped off barely 7-gallons of diesel and watched several fishing vessels putting over 25-times that much in ($1K!!)while we enjoyed a final non-moving meal of poached eggs and salsa over toast.

Just after 1100 we motored off the fuel dock in very light winds, Tao finally out of the harbor into the swell once again. We hemmed and hawed for a few moments as we determined where the wind and seas were actually coming from and discussed how to time getting to South Point (approximately 60-nm away) around dawn. Once we reached Kailua-Kona Bay we put the sails up, our decision, to slowly sail on the afternoon breezes and if we need to make up miles when there is no wind in the night, we'll motor then. It's been awhile! We got the sails up and the engine off while the clock struck noon and as the afternoon sea breezes filled in. We are making such good way that we actually might have to heave-to tonight in order to stay in the lee of the Big Island until dawn, so we can start our sail past South Point in daylight hours. Until then, we will gratefully enjoy a few more mellow moments of Hawaiian Aloha, sailing here in the protected lee of the Big Island.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Holding pattern


After the walk of shame to extend our permit here in Honokohau Harbor, we stopped promising people when we are leaving, no one believes us anymore anyway. We end our greetings with people we see here every day, laughingly, “See you tomorrow!” And figure that one of these mornings, we will just quietly be gone, underway again. Today finds us still in a holding pattern. Last evening we watched the sun set from our dock with Randy and his boat Sundowner’s fishing crew (who are so filled with aloha). We met the locals that trickled by and the fishermen were only too happy to explain how unpleasant it is currently at South Point. Interestingly, we found out that many bottom fishermen are mobilizing for this weekend’s expected reduced winds. Not surprisingly, this data coincides with the NOAA forecast.

So, we plan as best we can with the information we have, and choose to continue to make thoughtful conservative choices to ensure the smoothest and safest possible ride. Since we have waited so long already, we might as well wait just a little more instead of pushing off in one of the rare Small Craft Advisory's in effect today for the Hawaii Island Leeward Waters. We use the precious extra time here to enjoy Hawaii's aloha and test our backup computer system, downloading updated software and getting all of our waypoints in line. If all stays the same, we will push off tomorrow (Thursday) morning and hopefully reach the South Point Friday morning (along with the bottom fishing fleet) when winds are forecast to start relaxing. We'll just see what the weather says in the morning...